Modern Fashion: Derek Pickett of Unfltrd Passion On The 5 Things You Need To Lead a Successful Fashion Brand Today
An Interview With Candice Georgiadice
I would have to say without a doubt, passion. That’s the reason it’s in the name. I have an infectious love for fashion, creating and delivering on my promise. From the moment we are in contact whether its phone, email or text and I hear the details of your request; the who, what, when and why. You know the stuff the sales person in the mall doesn’t care about because they’re on commission and need the next sale. We once I get the details and I start working on your ideas and then incorporating my own ideas I am super invested in the design and ensuring it not only meets your physical specifications but also your emotional needs.
Many in the fashion industry have been making huge pivots in their business models. Many have turned away from the fast fashion trend. Many have been focusing on fashion that also makes a social impact. Many have turned to sustainable and ethical sourcing. Many have turned to hi tech manufacturing. Many have turned to subscription models. What are the other trends that we will see in the fashion industry? What does it take to lead a successful fashion brand today?
In our series called, “5 Things You Need To Lead a Successful Fashion Brand Today” we are talking to successful leaders of fashion brands who can talk about the Future of Fashion and the 5 things it takes to lead a successful fashion brand in our “new normal.”
As a part of this series I had the distinct pleasure of interviewing Derek Pickett.
Derek is a first generation entrepreneur that left the high paying financial industry to pursue his love for fashion, sneakers and individuality through his custom design service, Unfltrd Passion. Tired of paying clothing brands to wear and ultimately promote and showcase their logos and branding, Derek decided to try his hand at making his own designs to match his personality, style and sneaker collection. He quickly learned that what we wear is not simply a collection of fabrics but a representation and statement to the world of who we are and what we believe which lead to Derek’s risky business move; giving every customer the freedom to customize and personalize their order. Unfltrd Passion still offers that option to customers today but they have also expanded to offering full service styling options as well as also creating printing and sewing their own designs and products.
Thank you so much for doing this with us! Before we dig in, our readers would like to get to know you a bit more. Can you tell us a bit about your childhood “backstory”?
Sure. I am a native New Yorker. I grew up in the shadows of LaGuardia Airport and Shea Stadium (now Citi Field) in the Corona, East Elmhurst section of Queens. We were poor and I had no idea because I was always surrounded by family it wasn’t until I got older that I realized family was around because the adults (uncles, grandmother, mother) were basically splitting the rent and bills. Again I had no idea we were poor. I just thought it was normal.
Career wise I started working in Financial Services. I started in the mail-room at Chase Manhattan Bank at the time (now JP Morgan) and eventually worked my way
Can you tell us the story about what led you to this particular career path?
BACKSTORY
I always loved sneakers and fashion.
I was a big basketball fan. A even bigger Michael Jordan fan. I would record his games and watch and re-watch his movements and spend every minute of free time I had in the park trying to recreate his movements and mannerisms. MJ was like a living god to me and other than trying to emulate his movements their were his signature sneakers. I wanted them so bad. They were more than just a pair of basketball shoe. They were a statement piece that told the world I’m focused, determined and will succeed and be the best at what I do.
I received my first pair of Jordans when I made the basketball team in JHS, Bleeker 185 and while that would be the last pair I was ever gifted. I worked Summer Youth every year to be able to afford 1 pair that would last me the whole year.
When you’re in to sneakers you have to have clothes and outfits to match them. I learned pretty early just wearing the sneakers didn’t get you noticed socially, it seems everyone had the same sneakers but it became how could you put the outfit together. I mean you could have went to the sneaker store bought the sneakers and the shirt and pants that was on the mannequin in the store but you would get 0 point for that, sometimes you would get laughed it. If you really wanted to stand out you had to put effort into your outfit. So, knowing everyone in my neighborhood shopped at the same local stores; Main St in Flushing, Queens Center Mall, Jamaica Ave and Green Acres. I made it my business to avoid those stores at all costs.
I began getting on the train and shopping in Noho and Soho looking for anything different from what was available in the stores in my neighborhood. My all time favorite place to shop was when I discovered the Polo Mansion. When I found out Ralph Lauren had his own store outside of Macy’s, Bloomingdale’s and A&S I was there every time I got paid. The stuff in the mansion was like nothing I’ve ever seen before and no one in my neighborhood had anything like it and I loved it. I also remember discovering the purple label line of products, they stood out to me because the only branding was on the label on the inside. That meant the only way to know what I was wearing was you had to ask. That was next level.
At the time when you would see someone wearing something you liked you would look for the branding; the polo Ralph Lauren horse, the Tommy flag, the Nautica boat etc and then you would go and try to find it and copy the outfit. So discovering the Purple label allowed me to really get noticed and compliments for what I was wearing which was everything for this awkward teen.
SEEING THE WRITING ON THE WALL
Fast forward to 2014, I’ve been in financial services for over a decade. I’ve been steady climbing the corporate ladder. I’m making 6 figures, not bad for a kid with just a HS diploma, right? Out of nowhere I’m notified with hundreds of my coworkers that I am being laid off. No problem, took it like a champ. I found a new job immediately and was back to work but about 5 years later, I’m laid off again but this time it hits different. I know these are business decisions but this is also how I eat and provide for my family. So, I knew that I did not want my fate being decided by anyone but me. So, while still looking for employment I decided to try my hand at making shirts for sneaker lovers like my self, who wanted something no one else had and could not be found locally on the shelf. My idea from the very beginning was to limit my visible branding and give customers the ability to customize, personalize and change aspects of the design or fabrics. So, with that in mind Unfltrd Passion was born
Can you share the most interesting story that happened to you since you began your career?
I’ve had many great milestones so far from having celebrities wearing my products, to seeing featured on Revolt TV multiple times to even having one piece being the featured topic on the Breakfast Club radio show. Most of all I’m thankful for the journey and growth but most of all being able to build a company that I can leave for my children.
You are a successful business leader. Which three character traits do you think were most instrumental to your success? Can you please share a story or example for each?
I would say the character traits I think were the most instrumental to my success so far have been
Persistence
I am a first generation entrepreneur, coming from a working class family and background. Owning and operating a business requires a totally different mind frame and way of thinking. Honestly, it can be overwhelming at times because so many decisions need to be made from labels to pricing to logo to shipping channels and on and on which fall on me. It would probably be easier to just throw in the towel and go back to a 9 to 5 job but my gift or curse is my persistence. I am an August leo and when I am working on something I feel like a lion with a Gazelle in my sights; hunched down in the bushes, singularly focused, determined to at all cost to achieve my goal. So, whatever I am working on from design to packaging I put all of my self into it and even then I keep looking for ways to improve.
Hard working
My business at the end of the day is a customer service business. Yes it’s a fashion business which usually means models, celebrities, fashion shows and etc but when you remove all of the glitz and glamour I have to produce and deliver the product to the client on time. So, it’s not strange for me to be up at 3a cleaning silk screens or cutting fabrics, answering emails, looking for new ways to update the website and user experience. Running a business is a 24/7 commitment and a lot of hard work.
Adaptability
As business owners so many of us dream of being big as soon as possible. So many wonder how can we become the next Apple or Google and if you’re in fashion then how can I become the next Ralph Lauren or Gucci but what I have learned as I have grown my business is that smaller businesses have a huge advantage, adaptability. Where big companies with a board of directors and locations around the world need a lot of time to make changes and produce items, smaller companies can shift, meet needs and trends faster and just be adaptable.
For my business specifically, the Covid-19 pandemic allowed me to see just how adaptable my business is. Early on as businesses closed there doors I quickly realized that the blanks I used and needed for my designs were unavailable with no fulfillment date insight, I adjusted the way I did my business. The pandemic pushed me to learn pattern making and sewing techniques and ultimately create my own products from scratch. My business marketed itself as a custom business because we were able to customize the print but now we are truly custom where we can make everything from head to toe ourselves right here in NY.
What do you think makes your company stand out? Can you share a story?
I would have to say without a doubt, passion. That’s the reason it’s in the name. I have an infectious love for fashion, creating and delivering on my promise. From the moment we are in contact whether its phone, email or text and I hear the details of your request; the who, what, when and why. You know the stuff the sales person in the mall doesn’t care about because they’re on commission and need the next sale. We once I get the details and I start working on your ideas and then incorporating my own ideas I am super invested in the design and ensuring it not only meets your physical specifications but also your emotional needs.
Its the passion for the creative process that will often time have me presenting extra ideas, new fabrics and design techniques that I think you will love before going into production. It’s passion that will have me start a new design because the print its off or the color isn’t right, situations where I know other brands would just explain or hide the mistake, hearing your backstory and reasoning for wanting this item I will do everything in my power to not only make sure it is perfect but will get to you on time.
Do you have a favorite “Life Lesson Quote”? Can you share a story of how that was relevant to you in your life?
My favorite quote which I repeat to myself as I wrestle with new ideas or times of difficulties comes from Jay-Z. He has a song with Eminem named Renegades where in the second verse he says, “I had to hustle, my back to the wall ashy knuckles”.
The line has always stuck with me because it is descriptive of my struggle growing up poor in Corona, East Elmhurst. As a first generation entrepreneur with way more ideas and creativity than financial resources and entrepreneurial skills, I literally had to fight every step of the way.
Fight those family members and friends, who meant well, but said to give up and get a real job.
Fight the negative comments of people who just look at a product or two and assume the price is too high without understanding the process it takes to create and produce. Fight against the negativity from people who are too afraid to start their own business so they would rather tear another down. Fight against the noise in the marketplace, as drop-shipping takes off there is more competition than ever for consumers attention. Fight against bigger brands with much bigger pockets who can lower their prices to literally price you out of business.
No one said running a business or life in general would be easy but we all have to admit the fight can be draining. 3
So as self doubt creeps in almost immediately I hear those lyrics in my head which is my reminder to lace up my gloves and get ready for the bell to ring and get back in the fight.
Ok, thank you for that. Let’s now jump to the primary focus of our interview. Do you see any fascinating developments emerging over the next few years in the fashion industry that you are excited about? Can you tell us about that?
Digitization is exciting to me and probably to up and coming startup designers. Huge brands Ralph Lauren or Gildan have the resources to commission fabrics with any designs they come up with but smaller brands are limited to the bolts of fabrics they can find. Digitization evens the playing field, allowing fabrics of all types, from cotton to leather, to be digitally printed on demand.
For new creators this huge it allows the designer to the freedom to create to their heart content and also limit their carbon footprint by only making what is necessary
Can you share how your brand is helping to bring goodness to the world?
It took me almost 5 years to realize I don’t sell clothes. The end product may be a shirt or jacket but I sell choice, freedom, and confidence. Unfltrd Passion gives customers a voice and choice in what they wear. We offer you the freedom create and wear your own creations not just what a designer thought up 2 years ago or some stranger you never met says is in style and on trend.
We are also trying to do our part by leaving a small Eco foot print by making products to order so little waste
Can you share with our readers about the ethical standards you use when you choose where to source materials?
I specifically seek out 100% U.S. Pima cotton and 100% GOTS certified organic fleece to work with as these are natural and organic products.. Also we make every item by hand, to order in the United States which means it is more expensive to produce but is good for local economy and keeps our carbon footprint small. As opposed to fashion brands in general who waste, waste, waste; over producing items that abuse the earths natural resources, in some cases opening sweatshops and ultimately end up in landfills.
Fast fashion has an advantage, that it is affordable for most people, but it also has the drawback that it does not last very long and is therefore not very sustainable. What are your thoughts about this? How does your company address this question?
My company is a big proponent of slow fashion actually our whole process is slow intentionally. We make everything by hand to order in the US; that’s screen printing, dyeing, designing, manufacturing etc. Our products are not sitting on shelf waiting on a buyer, we work with you directly to come up with the outfit or garment of your dreams.
It starts with our initial conversation where I want to learn about you, your style, what you like and don’t like, what your pain points are. Is this a gift for someone or for yourself? Do you have an event coming up? And many more questions.
Sp, in this world where instant is expected Unfltrd Passion is a bit of an anomaly. I call it the Amazon effect, based on Amazon Prime Service, everyone expects their product over night. Customers are calling and emailing brands hours after they ordered screaming for their tracking number because they expect everything immediately. And here comes Unfltrd Passion disrupting the scroll, click and purchase flow and wants to have a conversation. I know this the opposite of what most brands are doing. They say lower your prices, remove options and distractions, get the customer to checkout faster. But I still believe in getting to know my customer, building a relationship with them and focusing on Quality over quantity.
As far as fast fashion we all have to ask ourselves what the trade off is to purchasing this product. Much like fast food; we know a sandwich and fries and soda for $5 is a great price but is there any nutritional value? Probably not. Is it worth our health to consume this based off price. Is that $5 tee worth destroying the earth, the low wages paid a worker in a factory for us to wear it twice and toss it?
Thank you for all that. Here is the main question of our interview. What are your “5 Things You Need To Lead a Successful Fashion Brand”. Please share a story or example for each.
The 5 things I think it takes to lead a successful fashion brand in our new normal and even beyond are;
Adaptability
Fashion brands need to be nimble and adaptable to the changes that the pandemic is causing globally. As an example when Covid first hit I was having issues finding blanks. I went directly to the manufacturer who told me directly that it would be almost 2 months before the items I wanted would be back in stock. So, I knew from that moment the fate of my business could not rest in one supplier. I had a sewing machine that was in the closet collecting dust and in the next few weeks, I began sourcing raw fabrics and taking online courses
in pattern making and sewing. Now, my business is not dependent on a manufacturer and can make any item I sell from scratch.
Above and Beyond Customer Service
Customer service is so important especially in the fashion industry which is an extremely crowded industry. What really makes a huge difference for all of our brands is how quick and attentive we are to our customers and potential customers. Are we responding immediately, are we resolving any issues, are we meeting them where they are in the communication method they prefer? Whether that’s text, phone call, Instagram dm, Twitter, etc. The reality is customers have so many choices and options.
Unique Voice
We have to keep our unique voice and perspective. Not to oversimplify things we are selling fabrics we sew and make available to our customers but the real difference lies with the designers and their courage to trust their art, vision, and creativity. My experience in this area has been the ideas I thought were the craziest and that no one would get but I found have been the best sellers because they were unique.
Ears to hear customers needs
We have to listen to our customers; whether that’s direct feedback from surveys, reviews, DMS, Twitter, etc. Or whether it’s looking at the analytics and bank accounts and seeing what’s selling and what’s not. Either way we need to know what the customer is interested in and how they feel about our products and customer service
Invest
There’s an old saying, “It takes money to make money”. Basically, as business owners we have to be willing to invest in our brands; marketing and promotion, logistics, packaging, research and development quality, etc.
FUTURE
I think the future of fashion is in personalization and customization. Of course, I may be biased or probably hopefully this is where I have hung my hat in my business but also I see luxury brands such as Gucci, LV increasing their online customization and personalization offerings when not too long ago this was something a customer had to ask about in store.
Customization and personalization in my opinion is the future because it seems customers are ready for more choices in their shopping experiences. We live in a time where we can order food from any restaurant and have it delivered, there are services that allow us to purchase automobiles without ever entering a dealership and I believe customers are primed to order their clothes in custom styles, sizes, and colors
Every industry constantly evolves and seeks improvement. How do you think the fashion industry can improve itself? Can you give an example?
The fashion industry can definitely improve it’s carbon footprint. Landfills have more clothing in them than any other type of garbage. Fast fashion in particular pushes this idea of constantly changing trends that people need to keep up with like every 3 months. The clothes are low quality but priced low which is great for sales but bad for the environment because people buy them wear them once or twice and toss them. Which is a terrible use of our natural resources, low paid paid labor and environment all around.
I get everyone is looking for a deal but as a consumer myself there are some items I give a side eye to if the price is too low; technology, cars, food and clothes. Call me biased but I am a proponent of quality over quantity.
Maybe the solution is a buy back program or credit for returned items that can be up-cycled. Actually, I think I’m going to work on this for Unfltrd Passion
You are a person of great influence. If you could start a movement that would bring the most amount of good to the most amount of people, what would that be? You never know what your idea can trigger. 🙂
Good question, it would have to be something promoting self confidence and being comfortable in your own skin. Thinking back to my early school years I remember feeling like the awkward kid; tall and lanky, dark, with a mole right in the middle of my face. I wanted desperately to fit in and belong so I looked at what everyone had, how they wore their hair, what labels they were wearing and tried to purchased the same thing or at least a knock off if I couldn’t afford the real thing. I wanted to fit in so bad that I was giving up what I know is my most important attribute, me. I am 1 in 6.5+ billion, there will never be another. When you get comfortable in your own skin and find your self-confidence it’s liberating.
This is the foundation Unfltrd Passion is built on. Working with clients not to copy someone else but bring out their unique style and fashion sense. There are billions of people now suffering in silence, still seeing themselves as that awkward kid in junior high. Confidence has socioeconomic impacts when it’s built up and strong your salary can change, your tax bracket can change etc.
How can our readers further follow your work online?
On our website; unfltrdpassion.com
Social Media: Instagram and TikTok: @unfltrdpassion
Youtube: Unfltrd Passion
In the words of Charles Barkley, “You better Google me!” Bing or Google: “Unfltrd Passion”
Thank you for these fantastic insights. We greatly appreciate the time you spent on this.
Modern Fashion: Derek Pickett of Unfltrd Passion On The 5 Things You Need To Lead a Successful… was originally published in Authority Magazine on Medium, where people are continuing the conversation by highlighting and responding to this story.