Modern Fashion: Charmaine Mischel of CM Design Agency On The 5 Things You Need To Lead a Successful Fashion Brand Today
An Interview With Candice Georgiadice
Our mindset determines our decisions in life and the outcomes that follow. Immerse yourself in the industry, hone your craft, and fall in love with every step of the process. We must surround ourselves with those who have gone where we want to go because there’s always another level. And it doesn’t matter who you are or where you started.
Many in the fashion industry have been making huge pivots in their business models. Many have turned away from the fast fashion trend. Many have been focusing on fashion that also makes a social impact. Many have turned to sustainable and ethical sourcing. Many have turned to hi tech manufacturing. Many have turned to subscription models. What are the other trends that we will see in the fashion industry? What does it take to lead a successful fashion brand today?
In our series called, “5 Things You Need To Lead a Successful Fashion Brand Today” we are talking to successful leaders of fashion brands who can talk about the Future of Fashion and the 5 things it takes to lead a successful fashion brand in our “new normal.”
As a part of this series I had the distinct pleasure of interviewing Charmaine Mischel of CM Design Agency.
Fashion Designer & Consultant, Charmaine Mischel is paving the way for startup fashion entrepreneurs to make their mark. At CM Design Agency in NY, it is her mission to lift the veil on the traditionally secretive Fashion Industry so that BIPOC Designers and more can launch premium capsule collections without making costly and unnecessary mistakes. She brings decades of domestic and international brand expertise to the table, guiding startups step by step along their #DesignerJourney, with core industry insights, guarded trade secrets, and best industry practices.
Thank you so much for doing this with us! Before we dig in, our readers would like to get to know you a bit more. Can you tell us a bit about your childhood “backstory”?
Every one of us has a story…when I think back to how it all began for me, I’m reminded of my Trinidadian Mom, who was my first creative inspiration. She kept a noisy, but fast sewing machine with a brown wood-grain table top in her bedroom. Each Spring she’d come home with a brand-new brightly colored fabric so she could whip up proper, matching Easter dresses for my sister and me.
I never saw her measure one thing — she’d cut, sew, tweak, and Walla! What struck me even then was how she could make something so beautiful out of something so simple. I have just a few pictures of myself as a child, and there’s one of my sister and me that I treasure. I’m in a little red A-line dress with elbow-length sleeves, a white Peter Pan collar, and matching cuffs. I think that’s when I fell in love with red — though you wouldn’t know it. Black on black on black is my typical go-to.
Fast forward to my early teenage years — I had one full bedroom wall covered in fashion photoshoot tear-sheets from every magazine I could get my hands on. And I had a particular affinity for all things PARIS. I couldn’t get enough — drinking in images of the Eiffel Tower, Champs-Elysées, the beautiful architecture, and window boxes overflowing with red geraniums. It was love. Truth be told, I didn’t plan then to pursue a career in the Fashion Industry — funny how life works!
Can you tell us the story about what led you to this particular career path?
I came to realize early on that I was naturally creative. I attended Art & Design High School in NYC. And following in my mom’s footsteps, just for fun, I’d buy funky “Jody Watley- Esque” fabrics to make my statement pieces. Even still, I thought I’d pursue architecture or become a fine artist. I enjoyed drafting class and drawing with charcoal & pastels, and painting with watercolor & designer gouache …until I met a college rep on career day from a historical Fashion school.
She came from a small school on 21st St & Park Avenue S. in NYC called The Traphagen School of Fashion. I was drawn in by the creativity and scope of their alumni — Designers like Mary McFadden, Geoffrey Beene, James Galanos, Arthur McGee, and Anne Klein. I was so enamored that I took the leap and chose to attend. Then my #DesignerJourney officially began.
Can you share the most interesting story that happened to you since you began your career?
The most full-circle realization I’ve had is that thoughts are things, and we truly can create the life we desire. I ultimately became a Fashion Designer in the NY Fashion Industry, requiring me to travel to PARIS & London twice a year. Paris was a deep, unspoken yearning from my youth come true. What I didn’t know when I was decorating my wall was that I’d begun to plant the seeds that would fuel my future. And my mother’s passion imprinted a level of creativity and attention to detail on me that is palpable to this day.
It’s not so much that I ran towards Fashion, as — it continually revealed itself to me. Over time, it unfolded its depths and possibilities before my eyes. I don’t mean for this to sound “woo-woo” at ALL, ha-ha. But what I know is that what I focused on grew and became reality for me.
You are a successful business leader. Which three character traits do you think were most instrumental to your success? Can you please share a story or example for each?
The three that come to mind are LASER FOCUS, CURIOSITY, and RESILIENCE.
Laser Focus — -
Once I decided to study Fashion Design, laser focus was what I needed to block out the noise and immerse myself in what was to come. I chose not to follow some of my H.S. friends who went on to study at FIT because I sensed the seriousness of the next several years of my life & career. Distractions were not an option. And, that decision absolutely paid off for me. Nearly every one of those friends are no longer in the Fashion Industry, and I’m still here.
Curiosity — -
Though I was inherently creative, I hungered for more insight & expertise. I knew a lot — relatively, but I sure didn’t know it all. My creativity did not exist in a silo. Having an expansive mindset, and gleaning knowledge at every turn has served me well in every area of my life. I joke sometimes that I’m always asking 100 questions =). I remain open to possibility, believing that there’s often more to discover. I’m a lifelong learner at heart, still craving awe and wonder every day. Allowing myself to explore that uncertain, curiosity-driven side of myself is the reason I continue to grow year after year.
Resilience — -
Challenges will come. Not one of us is immune. At a high point in my Design career, while at a Fortune 500 apparel company in NYC, my 4-month-old son needed surgery — and it did not go well. Corporate then made me choose between my dream job and my family. Long story short, my family came first as they always will. Afterward, I wasn’t sure if I’d ever Design again — but the Fashion Industry kept calling my name, drawing me back in! I realized then I wasn’t ready to give up on it. So, when my son began to improve, I picked myself up and got back into the game. I corralled all the contacts and resources I’d worked so hard to put in place over the years, and I launched my own Evening Wear company.
Now, I get to pay it forward. At CM Design Agency I help startup Designers to learn the inner workings of the Fashion Industry so they can launch their collections. If I had given up, I’d never have experienced the sheer joy and fulfillment that has come from claiming my right to design a life I can love and be proud of in every respect.
What do you think makes your company stand out? Can you share a story?
CM Design Agency was born out of a desire to open the doors to talented, up-and-coming BIPOC Fashion Designers. My goal is to lift the veil on this inherently secretive industry so that those who didn’t come to it via the traditional route — i.e., Fashion school, internship, Designer position, etc. — can still leverage their creativity and learn to launch their premium collections with clarity & confidence. It’s trendy right now in parts of the industry to appear to be diverse and inclusive because of this socially conscious moment in time. But when you look below the surface, in the industry, few Creative Directors and/or Designers who look like I do and come from where I come from are being included.
So, BIPOC Designers have begun to take action themselves, seeking out mentorship and support so they can launch their brands. But there are cliques and alliances in certain circles that still feel comfortable sharing only surface information. Self-taught, startup Designers need real insider information if they are to succeed, which is what they find at CMDA. Now is their time to show up, get what they came for, and SHINE.
Several years ago, a Womenswear Designer contacted me to help give her clarity about the end-to-end brand launch process. She was passionate & talented but exhausted from being in the DIY mode for too long. She just didn’t know what she didn’t know, and she needed to be able to see around the corner to bring some predictability to the process. Unfortunately, she’d already put several styles into production. $20k+ later, she received her first shipment of goods from China and saw that some of the fabrics were not what she’d expected, plus the construction and finishing were subpar. She considered trashing the entire collection — it was a nightmare.
Building a brand and launching a collection will always require an investment, but it shouldn’t have to be that painful. If she’d had a consultancy like ours alongside her from the beginning, she could have known which questions to ask, plus what assurances and limitations to put into place — so she wouldn’t have been taken advantage of. Thankfully, a domestic factory was able to correct and salvage some of her goods. Too many self-taught BIPOC designers aren’t given access to the information they need to move forward strategically, so they DIY and “wing” it as best they can.
At CMDA we say “The Secrecy Stops Here” because the creative end of the Fashion Industry cannot continue to be exclusive. Designers come to CMDA for high-level mentorship and guidance along their journey, and they connect with those who truly care about the success of their brand launch.
Do you have a favorite “Life Lesson Quote”? Can you share a story of how that was relevant to you in your life?
Absolutely. “My mission in life is not merely to survive, but to thrive; and to do so with some passion, some compassion, some humor, and some style.” -by Maya Angelou.
This is a quote I’ve held close for many, many years — but what we’ve all experienced in the last couple of years with the pandemic, loss, and uncertainty, has made that quote even more relevant. Even now, I’m thinking of the conversation I had with a friend this afternoon after her mom passed. Tomorrow is not promised. I’m determined more than ever to DESIGN a life I love and to help startup Designers do the same.
There is a big picture to the life of a Fashion entrepreneur. Fashion Design and brand management is, of course, one delectable part of it. But there’s also our SELF CARE, our FAMILY, our FAITH, some FUN and so much more to consider. These things are just as important. Living a well-rounded life that makes you feel fulfilled and whole at a soul level is everything.
Ok, thank you for that. Let’s now jump to the primary focus of our interview. Do you see any fascinating developments emerging over the next few years in the fashion industry that you are excited about? Can you tell us about that?
In much of the industry, there is a push towards greater awareness and accountability around conscious consumption. That’s something that veterans like myself and many newcomers to the industry as well, would like to see continue.
Consciousness, sustainability, equality, freedom, and inclusion are not just words anymore. Many consumers are putting their money where their mouth is. They are choosing to spend with smaller DTC brands that are meaningful and mission-based, as well as mid-size brands that are transparent about their supply chains.
To add to that, NY State has proposed The New York Fashion Act bill, and if it becomes law, it’ll require large brands doing over $100k in revenue to publish all negative environmental impacts and labor conditions, regardless of where their goods are manufactured. This is a great leap toward systemic change, and long overdue.
Can you share how your brand is helping to bring goodness to the world?
Throughout my career in corporate, I was the only Black Fashion Designer at every department meeting I went to, at every company event, at every social gathering after hours, during every business trip to Europe — everywhere I went, it seemed. Though it wasn’t openly talked about back then, it’s a glaring and disturbing reality that I and others who experienced the same are exposing and contending with in this new socially conscious era.
One of the principles I stand on is “Fashion is for EVERYONE.” CM Design Agency is a place where BIPOC Designers and more are supported as they find their voice, embrace their unique point of view, and position themselves to make their mark on the industry — and the world. My primary goal is to help Designers hone their expertise and grow their brands strategically so they can bring all their best to this world we all live in.
Can you share with our readers about the ethical standards you use when you choose where to source materials?
We now have an abundance of ethical vendor options. Making sure that the fabric suppliers are fair trade certified, and connected with reputable trade shows, including Premier Vision NY & Paris, DG Expo and Texworld is key. We absolutely avoid partnering with un-vetted, random sources online.
Fast fashion has an advantage, that it is affordable for most people, but it also has the drawback that it does not last very long and is therefore not very sustainable. What are your thoughts about this? How does your company address this question?
There is a glut of fashion consumption happening across the globe. And there is a conundrum happening primarily with Gen Z’ers, many of whom do have a limited budget. Gen Z, on one hand, is very vocal about eco-consciousness and buying ethically. Approximately 65% claim they do want sustainable fashion. But, on the other hand, they’re the main consumers of a “certain” retailer which has been reported to drop approximately 6000 new cheap styles per day, though this retailer appears to have no concern about eco-consciousness.
The numbers don’t even add up. If a dress retails for $10, who is making a living from making these clothes? How much did that seamstress get paid to construct it? It’s absurd. We need more transparency. And we need a cohesive mindset shift across generations for tangible change to happen in the industry.
Gen Z has more power in their hands than any other demographic to demand this change and help end the gross overproduction of subpar products. If they stop buying, mass manufacturers will have no choice but to shift their wasteful practices. That will leave room for smaller, more ethical, on-trend brands with a higher price point to offer a quality product that won’t need to be thrown away after one or two wears. It’s a win-win because consumers will pay more, but they can be proud to spend their money where it matters, and the product will last. Plus, those who will have to live in this world we leave behind will be better for it.
The Designers I work with at CMDA have zero interest in producing fast fashion. They are building purposeful brands, step by step, with the needs of customers front in mind. Instead of giving in to the typical notion that Designers need to launch 13-piece collections, they’re launching premium capsule collections. They focus on the styles their target customers will consume, instead of what they alone want to design.
The sample development and pre-production processes are evolving as well. We take advantage of 2D as well as 3D rendering to make sure the styles are viable and well merchandised before ordering proto samples. And I continually update and add to our fabric & factory resource lists to make sure they include reputable and compliant sources.
Thank you for all that. Here is the main question of our interview. What are your “5 Things You Need To Lead a Successful Fashion Brand”. Please share a story or example for each.
The 5 keys to leading a successful Fashion brand are knowing your BRAND PERSONA, CORE CUSTOMER, CREATIVE POINT OF VIEW, MARKETING STRATEGY & MINDSET.
Brand Persona — -
Your Brand Persona is what it sounds like. It is a living, breathing entity — a crystal clear representation of who you are as a brand, what you stand for, what you stand against, and how you will present yourself to the world. It’s truly a journey of self-discovery because the story begins with you. Committing the time necessary to maneuver through this introspective step in the launch process will ensure that the essence of who you are as a Designer will shine through. It’s foundational. If you execute this step well, everything you build aligns with your core mission so you can make an impact that will resonate.
A Designer who did this beautifully while the entire Fashion world was watching is Hanifa. In the Spring of 2020, Hanifa was the very first Designer in the industry to present a digital collection. The launch was timely and intoxicating! It took all our breaths away. Her willingness to push the boundaries is reminiscent of the reason she built her brand in the first place. On her website in 2020, it read “FOR THE LIMITLESS WOMEN: Inspired by a woman’s journey to a life without limits, Hanifa was created. Utilizing captivating designs, bold colors, and unique textures, our feminine designs illuminate natural curves. We hold true to providing luxurious pieces for all women, at every turn of her lifestyle.” And that she does.
Core Customer — -
Customers don’t always buy clothes because they need them. They buy because the purchase satisfies a need at a deeper level. They buy because they feel aligned with what your brand represents. And they’ll align with your brand when they feel you see who they are at their core. They’re also becoming more and more loyal to brands that try to make a difference.
A brand that understands this well is Universal Standard. For a long time, the average size of a Woman in the US was thought to be size 14. The little-known reality is that the average is size 16–18 ( — and after all the comfort food we all ate during the height of COVID it may well be higher than that :). Universal Standard has created a new size chart that remakes their customers feel understood: S = 14–16, M = 18–20 and L = 22–24. Its sizing is redefined, and their customers thank them for it.
Creative Point of View — -
It’s important to know what value you bring to the table as a creative. What exactly is it that sets your brand apart and makes it better than what’s already available on the market? If you’re just one more bland streetwear or contemporary womenswear brand, you may not be able to attract the raving fans required for your business to thrive.
Rich Fresh is a Designer who wasn’t willing to settle for the status quo. When he relaunched his streetwear label in 2018, he had a clear vision for his brand. He said, “I want to do luxury, and I want to do it unapologetically,” then went on to become the first Black-owned luxury label. His Dad is his inspiration for his unique aesthetic, which includes earthy mid-tones, signature stripes, and engineered panels. There’s nothing basic about the Rich Fresh streetwear collection. This allows him to shine bright in the sea of a seemingly oversaturated sect of the market.
Marketing Strategy — -
Fashion is a business no matter how you slice it. That said, a Luxury level Designer who is doing primarily bespoke pieces will have a different marketing strategy than a Premium level Designer who intends to tap into a wide body of consumers. Having an omnichannel strategy is key to gaining optimal visibility for all brands in this digital era. But because of the ever-changing algorithms and updates to online operating systems, paid media has begun to fall short of expectations.
Because of this, start-ups, as well as larger brands like Gymshark are finding that owned media and earned media better attract and hold the attention of their die-hard customer base. However, even after his recent raving success in 2022, loyal and new customers could still find Gymshark founder, Ben Francis running his pop-up shop in the streets of London alongside other growing brands — proving that organic marketing is here to stay.
Mindset — -
Our mindset determines our decisions in life and the outcomes that follow. Immerse yourself in the industry, hone your craft, and fall in love with every step of the process. We must surround ourselves with those who have gone where we want to go because there’s always another level. And it doesn’t matter who you are or where you started.
Consider the rise of the Ralph Lauren label. Bronx NY, 1939 — Ralph Lifshitz, was the youngest son of Jewish immigrant parents. He grew up dirt poor and he and his brother were discriminated against so relentlessly that they changed their last name. But that’s not what we think about when we think of the RALPH LAUREN brand at all. He began with a tie collection and a dream — and ended up building an empire. You may not intend to build a company as big, but whether you get even close to where you want to go depends on how bad you want it.
Hanifa, Rich Fresh, Ben Francis, and many other successful Designers have started from the very bottom also. Their laser focus and commitment to their brand vision have taken them further than their talent ever could have alone. Stay focused and keep your mindset intact, because whether you think you can launch a successful label, or deep down you think you can’t — you are right.
Every industry constantly evolves and seeks improvement. How do you think the fashion industry can improve itself? Can you give an example?
Continuing to push for the passing of The New York Fashion Act would be a great first step toward protecting garment factory workers and monitoring the environmental impacts of our industry. There are other key initiatives in place as well — the Fabric Act and the NY bill introduced to stop the use of PFAS in apparel fabrics, which are just as important.
Consumers drive consumption. And fast fashion manufacturers will produce what is profitable for them. So, if consumers continue to gorge on clothing that contains 18x the safe level of lead, they will continue to pump out new cheap styles by the thousands.
When customers finally get fed up and commit to purchasing largely from brands that are transparent about their ethical practices, things will begin to shift in the right direction. Gianni and Reformation are two of many brands that are putting QR technology to use refreshingly. Their customers can scan the QR codes on the labels of their clothing to get details about each garment’s supply chain from beginning to end.
You are a person of great influence. If you could start a movement that would bring the most amount of good to the most amount of people, what would that be? You never know what your idea can trigger. 🙂
Again, being conscious of where we spend our dollars is paramount. Purchasing from smaller “slow-fashion” labels, including BIPOC brands which are growing in a more organic, ethical way will make it possible for startups to claim a market share that could sustain them for the long term. Our entire Fashion Industry will be better for it.
How can our readers further follow your work online?
Website: https://cmdesignagency.com
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/charmainemischel
LinkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/in/charmainemischel
YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCzn17pu41TkSMLsNxoVAz2w/featured
Thank you for these fantastic insights. We greatly appreciate the time you spent on this.
Modern Fashion: Charmaine Mischel of CM Design Agency On The 5 Things You Need To Lead a Successful… was originally published in Authority Magazine on Medium, where people are continuing the conversation by highlighting and responding to this story.