Modern Fashion: Dr Courtney Hammond of Upscale Magazine On The 5 Things You Need To Lead a Successful Fashion Brand Today
An Interview With Candice Georgiadis
Wise brands create niches. One of the fundamental principles of effective branding is for fashion brands to diligently select a profitable segment that they can then target through an enticing positioning. Although this general principle is universally applicable, luxury brands are substantively different from other brands.
Many in the fashion industry have been making huge pivots in their business models. Many have turned away from the fast fashion trend. Many have been focusing on fashion that also makes a social impact. Many have turned to sustainable and ethical sourcing. Many have turned to hi tech manufacturing. Many have turned to subscription models. What are the other trends that we will see in the fashion industry? What does it take to lead a successful fashion brand today?
In our series called, “5 Things You Need to Lead a Successful Fashion Brand Today” we are talking to successful leaders of fashion brands who can talk about the Future of Fashion and the 5 things it takes to lead a successful fashion brand in our “new normal.”
As a part of this series, I had the distinct pleasure of interviewing Dr. Courtney A. Hammonds.
Hailed as “The Dean of Fashion,” Dr. Courtney A. Hammonds is a multidimensional storyteller who has built a career creating culture-shifting moments. He is a creative seditionary, design thinker, speaker, writer, and advisor. Following a career as a classroom teacher then serving as the Assistant Human Resource Manager for Neiman Marcus, the world’s leading multi-brand luxury retailer, he recently served 8 years as Academic Dean of the School of Fashion at The Art Institute of Atlanta where he successfully brought together creativity, communication, business, and innovation.
He now spends his time advising brands, companies, fashion weeks and governments. He’s been Identified as one of the key voices of global fashion by The St. Lucia Fashion Council and Startupbootcamp Fashtech Milan. He is a staple in the Readers Digest, NPR, and Upscale Magazine. He earned his Doctorate in Business Administration from Argosy University, an MBA from Keller Graduate School of Mgmt., and a Bachelor’s in education from Alabama State University.
Thank you so much for doing this with us! Before we dig in, our readers would like to get to know you a bit more. Can you tell us a bit about your childhood “backstory”?
I was born and raised in Columbus, Ga. If you know me at all, you know that I come from an extremely tight-knit family. As an adult, I have a deeper appreciation for this closeness. I have figured out that it is not just luck; closeness was born out of my “village” who diligently taught and showed me the significance of family. As I sit back and reflect on my childhood, here are a few things my village did to instill these morals in me.
Do life together. We share each other’s victories and share each other’s burdens. Root for each other! Feel their disappointment and hurt when life is hard and rejoice together in the good moments.
Create the “secure connection”. This means becoming Christ like, who gave and received love in healthy ways — honestly addressing problems with patience and grace, repairing ruptures when they occurred.
all the ingredients for a spectacular childhood for a man from the south.
Can you tell us the story about what led you to this particular career path?
I am absorbed in what my (golden girls) my mother, her two sisters and my maternal grandmother, Mattie Mae Hammonds, taught me about walking in my authenticity. In fact, I learned style and fashion from my grandmother and her friends (male and female) when they would wear their finest hats and clothes every Sunday at church. As well, the idea of a perfect day was to watch Style with Elsa Klensch.
Equally, I always had a longstanding love of European culture and the cross-fertilization of fashion, art, poetry, and life. When I was five, I moved to Berlin, Germany with my mother and stepfather. This was my gateway to the world outside of Columbus, Ga. This move fostered my appreciation for what was happening in the world of fashion, what was happening in the world of art.
Can you share the most interesting story that happened to you since you began your career?
Early in my career I started a blog called the fashion foodie. It was a creative playpen. My first cover story was on South Sudanese-British model Alek Wek, who was and still is my favorite model/muse. Studying and Dining with Alek Wek is as good as it gets. Every detail was perfect: flowers, food, porcelain, silver, lighting and of course fashion.
Fun Fact- Alek gave me one of her guest rooms, which welcomed me with an autograph copy of her book Alek: From Sudanese Refugee to International Supermodel. If that was not enough, she cooked dinner. It was Marvelous! Extraordinary! Over-the-top! I am still pinching myself!
You are a successful business leader. Which three-character traits do you think were most instrumental to your success? Can you please share a story or example for each?
Despite all that I have beat back and overcome, my deep knowledge of and passion for being a risk taker, my relatability and ability to lead with integrity are my proudest achievements/character traits.
Risk Taker. I consider myself to be a courageous leader who is not afraid to take risks. Such a character trait is evident in the fearless achievements I managed in my former role as the academic fashion director. Such developments included the expansion of new academic programs including The Bachelor of Fine Arts in Fashion Design (BFA). This signaled a pivotal direction for the institution as the fashion design program was at the forefront of recent programs and technologies in the southern region. Such kinds of developments depict me as a bold decision-maker and a prompt executor who understands what I want to do for organizations.
Relatability. This is key for forward thinking leadership. Businesses are human systems, and you need to build connections and trust quickly. I am open and primarily positive. I enjoy hearing what people have to say and bring myself to work. That brings vulnerability, of course, but it also builds loyalty and an environment of psychological safety where people can be creative, honest, and do not fear failure.
Often overlooked in favor of other traits, integrity is one that I believe should be placed higher on the list of priorities for all humankind. Seeing it as something that is often agreed upon in theory but rarely exercised in practice, there is too much focus on the end result and not enough on how you get there. Entrepreneurs are thrust into leadership, where they are looked to as a source of inspiration, ideas, strategy, and exemplifier of culture. For this reason, presenting a strong moral code of conduct is crucial to seeing these reflected in your clients, employees, and your business.
What do you think makes your company stand out? Can you share a story?
The only surefire way to success in the fashion industry is creating a brand that stands out from the crowd. Early on I decided to pick pathways within the fashion sector and learn them exclusively. By the time you are a master in something, people will think you are a master in everything in your industry and they will trust whatever you say more.
Moreover, I have learned how to embrace my inner David and stop acting like Goliath! I also learned to rise above the noise and not be afraid of losing credibility by being different.
As well, I positioned myself as one premium hire rather than fifteen juniors. This is usually a value proposition you can and should be operating in because it is the easiest for large companies to understand. Quality versus quantity.
Do you have a favorite “Life Lesson Quote”? Can you share a story of how that was relevant to you in your life?
There are several quotes that I live by, but there is one that really resonates with me. It is from Matsuo Basho: “Do not seek to follow in the footsteps of others, instead, seek what they sought.”
Let me explain how that relates to me. On my journey to become a better writer, I have tried to imitate many people. James Baldwin, bell hooks, Richard Wright , and many others. My goal was to learn from people whose writing I loved. Did I succeed? Not really. These exercises did help me improve but I was too focused on the surface. As Basho said, each of the writers I mentioned developed their own writing style. They learned from others as well and then transformed what they saw into what I consider pure gold. That is what matters: transforming. You cannot imitate anything or anybody perfectly. You are who you are, with your own quirks, and trying to reproduce others’ accomplishments will never work. Instead, you need to learn to dig deeper.
Ok, thank you for that. Let us now jump to the primary focus of our interview. Do you see any fascinating developments emerging over the next few years in the fashion industry that you are excited about? Can you tell us about that?
Recent waves of innovations targeting the fashion sector have led to an influx of tech-based designers seeking to highlight a new world of techniques, materials, manufacturing methods, and creations. 3D printing has become one of the most popular ‘tools’ used by emerging fashion designers and brands.
For example, Iris Van Herpen is the incontestable leader of the movement, thanks to her amazing work at the edge of innovation, and creations out of this world. The latest developments in 3D printing see a shift towards bio and eco-friendly inks, which could be the beginning of a new era of 3D printed sustainable clothes, for a cleaner industry and a better world.
Can you share how your brand is helping to bring goodness to the world?
Doing business in the 21st Century is complicated. Moreover, in our transparent, networked world, inauthentic social purpose is worse than no social purpose at all. The key to successful social purpose is the sincere desire to make a real, measurable difference. The place to start is to define the change you seek to create.
This said, I made the move to create my consultancy, because I wanted to lead a group that understood a fully engaged team enables the creation of a healthy business, which in turn provides the opportunity to positively impact the world. To be clear, each of these components (team, business, and world) are dependent upon one another, as a strong business cannot be created without an enthusiastic team. And making a positive difference in the world is only possible if you have a viable business model.
Can you share with our readers about the ethical standards you use when you choose where to source materials?
Sustainability is important to me, just as it should be to everyone. Honestly, it is hard to see how anyone can genuinely not think sustainability is important. The earth’s resources are not ours to use up
and discard, we all have responsibilities. I also envision sustainability influencing fashion. It used to be that being ecologically conscious meant you had to rule out many things. Now new options are opening all the time and instead we have a full range of new materials and processes that did not exist
before. Fashion is not going to change any quicker than it ever has, but it is going to adopt more sustainable aspects.
Fast fashion has an advantage, that it is affordable for most people, but it also has the drawback that it does not last very long and is therefore not very sustainable. What are your thoughts about this? How does your company address this question?
The biggest cause of damage to the environment from the fashion industry is the rise of “fast fashion” brands that generate inexpensive new collections multiple times a year, rarely using organic fibers. From the chemicals and water heaped on genetically modified cotton and other seeds to the energy needed to ship clothes halfway around the world, the environment endures most of the damage created by the staggering pace and volume of these companies’ clothing production.
On the consumer side, the ability to buy inexpensive garments has made shoppers feel as if clothing is disposable, which has contributed to a 400% increase in textile consumption over the past two decades.
There are other ways to help. One way to get your fix of trendy new items in a sustainable way is to rent them from companies such as Rent the Runway . Another way to reuse and recycle clothes is by participating in a clothing-swap party. There’s hope. Last year, Textile Exchange announced that numerous name brands, including Adidas, and Levi’s, had signed a pledge committing to using 100% sustainable cotton by 2025. This is a great start!
Thank you for all that. Here is the main question of our interview. What are your “5 Things You Need to Lead a Successful Fashion Brand”. Please share a story or example for each.
Wise brands create niches. One of the fundamental principles of effective branding is for fashion brands to diligently select a profitable segment that they can then target through an enticing positioning. Although this general principle is universally applicable, luxury brands are substantively different from other brands.
For example, the Comme des Garcons brand is known for embodying avant-garde fashion, with many of her wildly creative outfits looking like dynamic sculptures. Items include fringed blazers, mini dresses made of black taffeta, and wool sweaters with the brand’s Play logo, which is a heart with eyes. Although the brand began by specifically targeting the ultra-high end, mobile professionals that cared for a high quality product, over the years, it has gradually expanded its brand architecture scope with different products and slightly broader customer segments.
Recently, Comme des Garcons announced that it would launch ready-to-wear items. You can find them in a handful of stores worldwide or through other outlets, such as Nordstrom and Net-a-Porter. As such, it becomes even more important to an aspiring luxury brand.
Positioning based on high levels of differentiation. As fashion brands strategize their competitive moves, they are likely to either follow a cost leadership strategy or a differentiation strategy. Most fashion brands follow a differentiation strategy. However, unlike differentiation on mere product attributes, emerging brands should aggressively differentiate their brand experience.
For example, Bang & Olufsen, the iconic Danish luxury brand in design and electronics, is globally acknowledged as a leading luxury brand in its industry as the bases of its differentiation highlight primarily the symbolic value and appeal to customers’ psychological need to associate themselves with brands that are high on the social hierarchy. In this context, Bang & Olufsen does not only compete with similar brands in the same industry category, but they also compete with other luxury brands.
Emphasizing the symbolic value. The most principal element of creating a Fashion brand is the brand’s ability to create and communicate symbolic value for its customers. Brands usually offer two types of value — functional value and symbolic value. Functional value emanates from the features and the potential uses of the brand. Functional value highlights the base line value that customers expect when they buy a brand over a commodity or a store brand because of its underlying promise of quality, reliability, and trust. As such, it directly reflects the tangible ability of the brand for the customers.
One very good example is the Ralph Lauren brand. Starting out with making rags into ties, the American label is truly the rags-to-riches American Dream personified. As Ralph Lauren once said, “I don’t design clothes, I design dreams.”
Generating perceptions of exclusivity. What makes a fashion brand to be perceived as having symbolic value? Among others, a key factor is the perception of exclusivity. Most fashion brands, specifically luxury brands strive to create a sense of exclusivity for its consumers. Perceptions of exclusivity can in terms of unattainable price, limited geographic availability, barriers to possession, or even limited supply. These mechanisms of creating perceived exclusivity not only creates a pseudo sense of demand for the brand in the eyes of the observer but also enables those who patronize the brand a sense of special status.
Consider the example of Neiman Marcus. The feeling of exclusivity around the brand is a result of its philosophy and aim to always remain “ultra-premium luxury.” Such innovative strategies can help aspiring brands to create successful luxury brands.
Building a luxury brand is a journey. Building a fashion brand today amidst other longstanding brands in the current market landscape may seem daunting. However, with a clear plan to identify a niche customer segment and emphasize the brand’s symbolic value, there is enormous potential for brand managers to differentiate and position new, iconic fashion brands in the market. Some recent examples are www.keenaBela, a luxury leisure fashion brand offering high-quality products with a contemporary twist on traditional loungewear.
Every industry constantly evolves and seeks improvement. How do you think the fashion industry can improve itself? Can you give an example?
We need more transparency from the fashion industry. Transparency involves openness, communication, and accountability. Taking on more responsibility and more accountability is the only way to ensure that a company, in whatever part of the fashion industry it works is having a positive social and environmental impact. This strengthens the call for regulating the fashion industry. We cannot simply rely on voluntary Corporate Social Responsibility policy as a driver of change.
In short, I believe that we can make positive change happen by thinking and speaking differently about fashion and by demanding better.
You are a person of great influence. If you could start a movement that would bring the most amount of good to the most amount of people, what would that be? You never know what your idea can trigger. 🙂
The greater good of humanity has been the focus of my life’s work for more than two decades, since I helped start the Fashion Uncorked movement, a design competition benefiting Easter Seals efforts to assist adults and children with disabilities. I sincerely believe that we should value all lives equally and act on that basis. It is the antithesis of the old do-gooder’s credo “Think global, act local.”
How can our readers further follow your work online?
I enjoy meeting new people and hearing new perspectives. Please visit imdrcah.com to learn more about me. All are welcome!
Thank you for these fantastic insights. We greatly appreciate the time you spent on this.
Modern Fashion: Dr Courtney Hammond of Upscale Magazine On The 5 Things You Need To Lead a… was originally published in Authority Magazine on Medium, where people are continuing the conversation by highlighting and responding to this story.